Semi-Pemi-Loop Hike
I thought about enjoying the spectacular foliage of the White Mountains, and fulfilling my burning desire of a long hike for a while. After watching the weather and online New Hampshire webcams for the past week, I thought this Saturday 2012-10-13 would be perfect for this hike.
I got up at 4:10, but did not get out until 5:00. I did not think too much this time as I usually do because I packed everything last night. Well, 13 miles and 25 minutes later, I realized that I forgot the most important hiking gears – my hiking boots, so I effectively started at 5:50 after returning home to get my boots, 80 minutes later than my originally planned. The traffic on Rt. 93 was surprisingly heavy at this time of earl morning, but no jam. I had my breakfast (gourmet bread) while driving, and reached the Lincoln Woods parking lot at 8:10. I was shocked by the closing of the restroom. I abstained from bio breaks all the way because I planned to use this facility!
I started out at 8:29, and soon answered a call of nature in the woods. Looking at the bare tree branche and leaves on the ground, I quickly realized that the foliage one primary reason for this hike, is gone, but it had little effect on my enthusiasm.
I reached the Franconia Brook Trail at 9:27. I only skied on this trail for a short distance a few years ago. This is one major reason that I wanted to do the loop clockwise. I do not want to explore an unknown trail toward the end of my hike in the dark. The trail is largely on an old railroad grade all the way to the 13 Falls Campsite. It must be among the most comfortable trails in the White Mountains. All the water crossings, which were what I was concerned most about this trail, were quite manageable. One could rock-hop to cross all the brooks. I chose to step through them with my high profile, waterproof hiking boots out of the fear of slipping.
I reached the 13 Falls Campsite at 11:45. The AMC map and White Mountain Guide gave me the impression that the Twin Brook Trail was on the other side of the campsite. I went into the campsite, reached its very end without seeing any one or the sign of the Twin Brook Trail. I backed out, looked at the map more carefully, and realized the trailhead is further up.
The real climbing finally started after 13km. Unlike the Franconia Brook Trail, the Twin Brook Trail apparently is not heavily used. I got lost twice, but found the way quickly. Scattered ice pellets changed to snow with rising altitude.
It was much colder than I thought. I expected to take off my jacket after warming up, but found it was necessary to have it on. I felt slightly warmer than comfortable when my exertion was high, but felt another layer was needed whenever I stopped just for a few minutes for taking photos, drinking, etc.
I reached Galehead Hut at 13:28, or 88 minutes later than I originally planned the day before. I felt quite fresh. None of my knee, calf or angle injury had any sign of flaring up. Now, I was confident of finishing the loop. The hut would be closed the next day. I was counting on the hut to refill my bottles and get some food. It was a relief to see the it open. After two bows of potato soup and a large piece of bread, and wandering around the hut to take photos, I resumed my hike at 14:12.
Two hikers were surprised by my planning to go back to Lincoln Woods the same day, and expressed their doubt.
I knew the part of Twin Way trail leading to the South Twin Summit would be the most challenging part due to its steep slope, but I did not expect ice sheets on the rocks making the climbing even harder. Without crampons, I relied on my hiking poles and tree grabbing to move up slowly. Fortunately, the second half of the segment was covered with snow instead of ice.
I reached the South Twin Summit at 15:06. I could not help taking a lot pictures. I met a guy wearing shorts when I was just about to leave the summit. He was doing the full Pemi-loop with extensions at a blazing pace – 13 hours.
I reached the Bondcliff Trail at 16:03, Mount Bond at 16:44. At that point, I was sure that I would reach Bondcliff before sunset, another relief. I did at 17:33. I took the opportunity to take many photos of the spectacular dusk views surrounding Bondcliff. The sun set at 18:03, but with trees and surrounding mountains, the trail got dark fairly quickly. I put on my headlamp at 18:10. My Panasonic DMC-ZS20 was running out of battery, and the timing was good because all the important photos had been taken by then. I started charging the camera with my Duracell DR700LI Gadget Charger which I originally bought for charging my GPS watch. I thought that little charger would be able to charge the camera only partially, later was happily surprised by the camera fully charged.
My last concern was gone after passing 4 water crossings fairly easily. However, the combination of my thick socks and narrow boots had its toll on my feet. Blisters got more and more painful. This has to be the last long hike with that pair of boots which are perfect – waterproof, lightweight, high profile – except its narrowness.
I reached the Wilderness Trail at 19:35, the Lincoln Woods Trail at 20:10 and the Lincoln Woods parking lot at 21:06 with joy. I immediately relived my pain by taking off my boots.
I drank only two 591 ml bottles of Gatorade during the entire hike. Considering the two bowls of soup, I took about 2 liters of liquid in total. That is probably the least fluid that had ever taken for a hike longer than 30 km. About 60% of my 6-kg backpack was never touched. They included 2 bottles of water, backup thick T-shirt and pants, emergency kit. The total time of 12:37 is about the perfect length for a day hike. My Garmin 301 GPS watch’s battery lasts about 13 hours (Good design, Garmin!).
I was tired, but not sleepy. I took off to head home quickly. I ate some snacks (roasted seaweed, Popcorners’ all natural popcorn chips, and bread) while driving. Within half an hour or so, the feared drowsiness started to occur. I had no choice but to pull over at a rest area to have a nap. After a 40-minute nap, I got a cup of French Vanilla. It certainly woke me up. I was surprised by the good taste of the machine-made drink, and I got a cup of machine-made Cappuccino at the next rest area. That could be a mistake because I had a hard time falling asleep later.
I reached home at 1:00, feel asleep at 2:00, and got up at 8:00.
Loop:
Lincoln Woods Visitor Center -4.7 → Franconia Brook Trail Head -8.4 → 13 Falls Campsite -4.2 →Frost Trail Head -0.2 → Galehead Hut-1.3 → South Twin Summit-3.2 →Bondcliff Trail Head-2.1 → Mount Bound-1.9 → Bondcliff -7.1 → Wilderness Trail Head -2.9 → Franconia Brook Trail Head -4.7 → Lincoln Woods Visitor Center (distance in km)
Total distance: 40.6 km
Total time: 12:37
Cumulative ascent: 2068 m
(data from Garmin 301)